Zambia: Lusaka, Lower Zambezi & Livingstone
Zambia is one of those countries I will never stop telling people to visit.
Maybe I’m biased because I was born and raised here, but after travelling to more than 60 countries, I still think Zambia is one of the most underrated destinations in Africa.
You have Victoria Falls, incredible national parks, the Zambezi River, some of the best safari experiences in Africa, amazing food and landscapes that still feel genuinely wild and untouched.
For this trip, we travelled from Lusaka into the Lower Zambezi, returned to Lusaka before flying down to Livingstone, and even crossed into Botswana for a safari in Chobe National Park.
If you’re planning your first trip to Zambia, this is exactly how I’d do it.
OUR ROUTE
📍 Lusaka
📍 Lower Zambezi National Park
📍 Lusaka
📍 Livingstone
📍 Chobe National Park, Botswana
📍 Victoria Falls
I’d give yourself at least a week for a similar itinerary, although you could very easily spend longer.
WHEN TO VISIT ZAMBIA
We travelled during Zambia’s green season, which runs roughly from November to April.
This is when the country becomes incredibly lush and green, but it also means rain, muddy roads and much more unpredictable conditions.
Personally, I love how dramatic everything looks during this time of year. The bush is thick, the waterholes are overflowing and the landscapes are beautiful.
If Victoria Falls is one of the main reasons you’re visiting, water levels also make a huge difference to what you’ll experience, so keep this in mind when choosing your dates.
LUSAKA
Most travellers use Lusaka as a jumping off point before heading to Zambia’s national parks or Victoria Falls, but I wouldn’t completely skip it.
It’s busy, there’s traffic and it can definitely feel chaotic, but there are some beautiful places tucked away from the city.
Sandy’s Creations Resort
This genuinely feels like a little tropical oasis despite being only around 10 minutes from the city centre.
There are beautiful gardens, swimming pools, great food and cocktails, and it’s a lovely place to spend a relaxed afternoon before or after a safari.
The food was probably my favourite part. I had one of the best chicken burgers I’ve ever eaten here, and definitely order the whiskey sour.
Book it here: https://booking.tpo.li/kYdpbGpc
LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK
If there is one place I think deserves far more attention in Zambia, it’s the Lower Zambezi.
The scenery here is spectacular.
You have the Zambezi River stretching out in front of you, enormous clay banks, palm trees, elephants wandering through the bush, hippos in the water and some of the most beautiful untouched landscapes.
It feels properly wild.
Getting to the Lower Zambezi
You can fly into the Lower Zambezi, which is definitely the easier option, or drive from Lusaka.
We drove.
And I’m warning you now, the road is an adventure.
The entire journey took us around six hours, including roughly three hours on dirt roads. During green season, expect potholes, waterlogged tracks and very little phone signal.
Download your Google Maps offline before leaving Lusaka.
A proper 4x4 is also essential.
That being said, driving gives you an entirely different experience. We saw elephants, antelope, warthogs and zebra before we had even arrived at our lodge.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE LOWER ZAMBEZI
Royal Zambezi Lodge
We stayed at Royal Zambezi Lodge and this place is incredibly special.
The lodge sits directly on the Zambezi River, meaning wildlife is quite literally all around you.
We stayed in one of the Presidential Suites, which had a huge bedroom and lounge, a private plunge pool and a massive balcony overlooking the river.
You’ll also quickly learn why the rooms have baboon locks!
The lodge has an open veranda overlooking a lagoon where animals regularly come down to drink, so even having lunch can turn into a wildlife experience.
WHAT TO DO IN THE LOWER ZAMBEZI
Go on safari
Obviously.
Lower Zambezi National Park is home to an incredible amount of wildlife, particularly elephants.
During one of our drives we saw an elephant with her calf, and later came across three lionesses with six tiny cubs.
One of my favourite parts of safari here was actually the conditions.
Because we visited during green season, some of the roads had practically turned into rivers overnight. Driving through the water in a 4x4 while searching for lions felt like a proper African adventure.
Have sundowners in the bush
One evening our guide surprised us with sundowners on top of a hill overlooking the park.
There was an entire little bar set up, cocktails were made for us and a herd of elephants appeared while we were taking in the view.
Very Zambia.
Go fishing on the Zambezi
This was one of my favourite experiences of the entire trip.
Fishing on the Zambezi is completely different because you’re surrounded by wildlife while you do it. Hippos and crocodiles are sharing the river with you while you fish.
I caught a Zambian tiger fish, which we released straight back into the river, while Elliott eventually caught an enormous 25 lb vundu, one of the largest species of catfish found in Zambia.
Everything was catch and release.
Have lunch on the Zambezi
After fishing, we had lunch while floating down the Zambezi River.
Good food, a glass of red wine, wildlife along the riverbanks and that scenery around you.
I genuinely can’t think of a better way to spend an afternoon.
THE DRIVE BACK TO LUSAKA
One advantage of driving is being able to stop along the way.
On our return journey we found women selling these beautiful orange mushrooms on the side of the road.
They were chanterelles growing wild in the escarpment and cost us just 30 kwacha for an entire pot.
These little roadside moments are one of the reasons I love travelling through Zambia rather than simply flying everywhere.
GETTING TO LIVINGSTONE
From Lusaka, we flew to Livingstone.
The flight is only around 40 minutes and is by far the option I’d recommend.
We flew with Proflight, although Zambia Airways is another option.
You can drive, but it’s a long journey and the road conditions aren’t always great.
WHERE TO STAY IN LIVINGSTONE
We split our time between two neighbouring properties inside Mosi oa Tunya National Park.
Avani Victoria Falls Resort
Avani is the more relaxed, family friendly option.
We stayed in a Lagoon Suite with a huge bedroom, dining area, lounge and balconies overlooking the lagoon.
And yes, there are little crocodiles in there.
The grounds themselves feel like a safari. Giraffes, zebra, impala and monkeys roam freely around the property.
You can genuinely be lying next to the swimming pool and suddenly have a giraffe walking behind you.
Book your stay here: https://booking.tpo.li/Pno1grNA
Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara
Royal Livingstone has a completely different atmosphere.
It feels more grown up and traditional, with architecture and interiors inspired by the Victorian era.
If you want something quieter and more elegant, I’d choose this.
One huge advantage of staying at either Avani or Royal Livingstone is their location.
Both sit right beside Victoria Falls and guests have direct access to the falls through a private entrance.
Book your stay here: https://booking.tpo.li/Pno1grNA
VISITING VICTORIA FALLS
You simply cannot come to Zambia without seeing Victoria Falls.
Known locally as Mosi oa Tunya, meaning The Smoke That Thunders, this is one of the most extraordinary natural sights in Africa.
You’ll hear it before you see it.
When the water levels are high, the amount of mist is insane. You aren’t getting slightly wet. You are getting absolutely SOAKED.
Wear clothes you don’t mind getting wet and protect your camera equipment.
You can rent a raincoat, but honestly, embrace it.
Make sure you also follow the path towards the top viewpoint because it gives you a completely different perspective of the falls.
If you aren’t staying at Avani or Royal Livingstone, you can enter through the main public entrance.
DON’T MISS THE CURIO MARKET
When leaving Victoria Falls, stop at the Mukuni Victoria Falls curio market.
Livingstone is one of my favourite places in Zambia for buying locally made crafts and souvenirs.
We somehow ended up flying home with a giant wooden zebra, so consider yourself warned.
HAVE A SUNDOWNER AT ROYAL LIVINGSTONE
This might be one of my favourite sunset spots anywhere in the world.
Head to the Sundown Deck at Royal Livingstone, order a gin and tonic and watch the sun set across the Zambezi while the mist from Victoria Falls rises in the distance.
You don’t have to be staying at the hotel to visit, but I would make a reservation.
I’ve travelled all over the world and I still maintain that Zambia has some of the best sunsets.
BOOK A MASSAGE OVERLOOKING THE ZAMBEZI
The Anantara Spa at Royal Livingstone has treatment rooms overlooking the river, with the mist from Victoria Falls rising in the distance.
We booked a full body massage and it was one of the most relaxing experiences of the trip.
If you have some downtime between activities, I’d definitely add this.
EXPERIENCE A ZAMBIAN BOMA NIGHT
If you’re in Livingstone on a Saturday night, head to the Mukuni Boma.
This is one of the easiest ways to experience a little more Zambian culture while you’re here.
There’s live music, traditional dancing, performances, local crafts and a huge spread of food.
Try a proper Zambian plate with nshima and oxtail.
I also LOVE chikanda, so if you see it, try it.
There are more adventurous options too, including crocodile.
After dinner, wander through the market outside where you can meet local craftspeople and learn more about the stories and traditions behind what they make.
TAKE A DAY TRIP TO CHOBE NATIONAL PARK
One of the coolest things about staying in Livingstone is how easy it is to visit another country.
Chobe National Park in Botswana makes an amazing day trip.
We left Livingstone early in the morning and drove around one hour to the Kazungula border.
This part of Africa is fascinating because Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Namibia all come incredibly close together near the meeting point of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers.
The border crossing into Botswana was surprisingly easy when we visited.
From there, we continued towards Chobe National Park.
Safari in Chobe
Chobe is particularly famous for its enormous elephant population.
We saw elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, kudu, impala and more.
We also came across two huge female lionesses in what appeared to be a territorial dispute.
One started growling at our vehicle when we got a little too close, which definitely got the heart rate going.
You can combine a game drive with a boat safari on the Chobe River if you have the full day.
We chose the half day option because we had already spent so much time on the water in the Lower Zambezi.
If this is your only safari during the trip, I’d probably do both.
TAKE A HELICOPTER FLIGHT OVER VICTORIA FALLS
If you splurge on ONE activity in Livingstone, make it this.
We flew with United Air Charters and chose the longer helicopter experience.
It was genuinely one of the best travel experiences of my life.
This wasn’t simply a gentle flight above Victoria Falls.
We skimmed over the treetops before dropping into the Batoka Gorge, flying between its enormous walls and racing above the Zambezi rapids.
Then we flew towards the huge cloud of mist rising above Victoria Falls.
Seeing the falls from above gives you a completely different understanding of their scale.
You can see the enormous sheets of water dropping into the gorge, rainbows forming through the mist and the Zambezi stretching away in the distance.
It isn’t cheap.
But this is one experience where I genuinely think it’s worth every penny.
WHAT TO EAT IN ZAMBIA
Food is always a huge part of travelling for me and there are a few things I think you should try while you’re here.
Nshima
The staple of Zambian food and something I grew up eating. It’s made from maize meal and normally served alongside meat, vegetables and relish.
Chikanda
One of my favourites. Sometimes called African polony, it’s traditionally made using wild orchid tubers and groundnuts.
Oxtail
If you see oxtail with nshima on a menu, order it.
Zambian fish
Especially when you’re staying around the Zambezi.
Mosi Lager
One of Zambia’s most famous beers, named after Mosi oa Tunya.
And finally, buy things from the roadside when you get the opportunity. Fresh fruit, sugarcane, mushrooms and other local produce are part of the experience.
MY ZAMBIA TRAVEL TIPS
Download offline maps. Phone signal can disappear completely once you leave the main towns.
Don’t underestimate distances. Zambia is big and journeys can take much longer than they look on a map.
Fly when it makes sense. Small domestic flights can save you hours of driving.
Bring clothes you can get wet at Victoria Falls. Seriously.
Book safaris early. Particularly if you’re staying at one of the smaller lodges.
Leave room for spontaneous moments. Wildlife does not follow an itinerary and neither does Zambia.
MY PERFECT FIRST ZAMBIA ITINERARY
If I were planning this trip for someone visiting Zambia for the first time, I’d do:
Day 1: Arrive in Lusaka and relax
Day 2: Travel to Lower Zambezi
Day 3: Safari and sundowners
Day 4: Fishing on the Zambezi and floating lunch
Day 5: Return to Lusaka, spend at night or two at Sandy’s Creations Resort
Day 6: Fly to Livingstone, spa and sunset drinks
Day 7: Chobe National Park day trip
Day 8: Victoria Falls and Mukuni Boma
Day 9: Helicopter flight over Victoria Falls and a relaxed afternoon by the Zambezi
You could easily extend the trip and explore more of Zambia, particularly if you want to add another national park.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Zambia will always be home to me, but coming back and travelling through it like this reminded me just how special it really is.
There are destinations where everything feels designed for tourists, and then there are places where you still feel like you’re actually exploring.
Zambia is the latter.
One minute you’re watching lion cubs emerge from the bush, the next you’re fishing for tiger fish on the Zambezi, drinking a gin and tonic beside Victoria Falls or buying mushrooms from the side of the road.
It’s wild, beautiful, unpredictable and still incredibly underrated.
And if this guide convinces even a few more people to put Zambia on their bucket list, I’ll be very happy.
WATCH MY FULL ZAMBIA DOCUMENTARY 🇿🇲
Want to see this entire trip properly?
Watch my full Zambia travel documentary where I take you from Lusaka into the Lower Zambezi, on safari, fishing along the Zambezi River, through Livingstone, across the border into Botswana and finally above Victoria Falls by helicopter.
Oriana, inspired by travel, made for you.